How to Paint a Fence

painted boundary fenceBesides its cosmetic effects, paint provides outdoor structures with protection against the elements. Fences, in particular, need a protective coat of paint every 2 to 3 years. They're usually built away from other structures and trees, which could otherwise shield them from the elements. Paint helps iron and metal constructions resist rust and corrosion. It also fortifies wood against the effects of wind, rain, snow and extreme temperatures. Fence-painting is a time-consuming, but important, undertaking. By doing it at suggested intervals, you can strengthen the fence, reducing the likelihood of it needing to be replaced. If you want to learn how to paint a fence, follow these steps.

Prep the area around the fence. Preparation is a critical phase of fence-painting. You want to protect the vegetation along the fence line while readying the surface for painting. This is a time-consuming process, but it makes the job easier.

  • Mow and edge the grass along the fence line. Trim back bushes and shrubs that abut the fence. Use a leaf blower to blow dirt and grass clippings away from the fence line.
  • Spread a drop cloth or plastic sheeting under the section of fence you'll be painting. Keep it in place throughout the project to collect residue from prep work and protect against spills.
  • If the fence was previously treated, scrape off loose or flaking paint.
  • Pressure-wash or sand a new, untreated wood fence. It's best to sand a fence that was painted before. This helps the paint adhere to the wood. If necessary, use a scrub brush and a 1-to-1 mixture of bleach and water to eradicate mold on the fence. Let the surface dry.
  • If you're painting iron or metal fencing, use a steel brush to remove rust and then sand the surface with medium-grit sandpaper.
  • After sanding, wipe off residue with a clean rag.
  • Seal and tape off parts of the fence you don't want to paint, like ornaments, gate latches and handles and other hardware.

fence paint

Pick the right paint for your job. Make sure you use an outdoor paint on your fence. These are specially treated to withstand the effects of weather and come in a variety of types.

  • Acrylics: Acrylic paint is durable, providing an excellent layer of protection for your fence, but you might have to apply a primer to an untreated surface before you can paint.
  • Acrylic stains: Stains bring out the natural beauty of the wood and usually don't require the primer coat that paints do. They also are easier to re-coat and require minimal surface prep.
  • Oil-based outdoor paint: Oil-based paints may require multiple coats and may not protect as well as acrylics, but they do provide a superior-looking finish.
  • Enamels: Enamel paint is ideal for iron fencing and gates. Usually, you'll need to treat the surface with a rust-inhibiting primer.
  • Automotive epoxy paint: The benefits of automotive epoxy are, it's a 1-step process and is very durable. You will have to mix in a hardener with this paint, which does force you to get the job done within about 6 hours.

For a free quotation, or to discuss your requirements, please contact Country Wide Walling.

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Common Problems with Painting Concrete Walls

Painting concrete walls can result in a few problems if the concrete wall has not cured. If the concrete cannot adequately cure before it is painted, the paint will trap the excess moisture within the concrete and the paint can peel some of the cement as it peels itself. Painting the concrete wall can also cause the plaster to not receive the water cure that it needs.

common problems

Cracks in the Wall

Before priming the wall, cracks in the concrete should be filled with a material that can withstand weather effects. If the wall plaster has a texture, then sealant should be of a matching texture. If it is not, bands of smooth surface can be seen through every coat of paint in a different contrast.

Coverage

If primer and paint is applied, it needs to be applied across the whole surface in order to have the best results. Once the primer has been applied and allowed to cure, the finish coat needs to be laid on in several thick coats. If not, the uniform color will not be attained and you will not achieve the look that is desired. Some projects do not have primer applied before the paint. Other projects may have had paint thinned so much that the coat is not even effective. This makes the wall look like it did not receive adequate coating.

Primer

In order to get the bond desired, the right primer will need to be applied to new concrete walls. This will prevent paint delamination also. There are some paints and primers in particular that needwall painting to be used together. Although cement plaster and concrete should have a coat of primer before the paint is applied, painters do not always prime concrete and plaster.

Delamination

Delamination is the process of paint peeling from a new concrete surface or cement plaster. Paint will delaminate from concrete just as it does from wood and metal. This is why the concrete wall needs to be well prepared and all application procedures need to be followed. Moisture from rain or from the concrete not curing will release from the concrete and cause cleaving.

Over Brushing the Paint

If a painter applies paint to the brown coat on cement plaster, the paint will serve as a bond breaker causing delamination. Plaster behind a coat of paint will turn soft if paint is not allowed to cure. Paint will keep the water from evaporating properly. Concrete walls need to be prepped and primed. Paint needs to be thick and not diluted.

Please contact Country Wide Walling for a free quotation today

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Should I paint over my worn out fencing or gate?

Outdoor maintenance can make your home more welcoming,worn metal fence and it can make a big difference to the value of your home and the surrounding properties. If you have a fence and a gate around your property, it’s important to maintain the structure so that it will last and add to value of your home.

So how do you take care of a metal or timber fence or gate when it gets old or worn out and begins to rust or flake?

Your first thought might be to give it a fresh paint job so that it looks new again on the outside. Painting over rust or wood rot, however, is a very temporary fix that may only last up to one season before the rust and flaking resurface. Painting will not solve the problem. If you notice rusting or flaking, the metal or timber under the paint has worn out. Not only will your fencing look unattractive on the outside, but it will no longer be providing a protective barrier to your property as the material will be easily breakable.

So the answer to the question ‘Should I paint over my worn out fence or gate?’ is generally ‘No’.

When it gets to this stage it’s important to replace the worn out material in question, rather than using a temporary fix to solve the problem. Over a few seasons of repainting you will end up spending a considerable amount anyway, so why not address the underlying problem right away and save in the longer-term?

Go with powdercoating

When replacing the fencing or gate we would recommend going with a powdercoated steel orpowdercoating palisade aluminium option. Powdercoating is a method of treating and colouring metal that’s made to last for years, and particularly when paired with aluminium which is resistant to rust, the replacement fence and gate will be an extremely long-term investment.

What if I change my mind about my powdercoating colour?

  • Powdercoated fencing and gates are built to last so long that the reality is the reason you’ll want to update them won’t be because they’re worn out, but because you fancy a change of colour! So what happens if you want to change the paint colour on your powdercoated fencing? 
  • Painting over a powdercoated fence is absolutely possible and doesn’t have to be challenging – just follow these tips:

Choose a well ventilated area

paint and brushIf your fence is already installed and you’re painting with a brush, you’re all set: your fence is already outdoors. But if you’ve chosen to spray paint you might prefer to take your fence apart and paint it in pieces to avoid getting spray paint on your lawn or the footpath. If this is the case leave the garage door open while you paint inside, or lay down sheets in the garden and do it out in the open.

Clean the surface prior to painting

The best way to clean powdercoated fences is with a basic all-purpose cleaner. You may gently use steel wool to remove grease or dirt that won’t come off. It may be easier to clean a section of the fence, and then paint that section before moving on to the next section so that the surface is freshly cleaned when paint is applied.

Is priming necessary?

No, another benefit of having a powdercoated metal fence or gate is that it does not require any priming to paint over it like a rusty metal fence would.

Paint with spray paint or a brushspraypainting palisade

Spray painting is usually the easiest way to paint a fence or gate, but it must be done outdoors or in an extremely well ventilated area. Spray paint looks like freshly powder coated steel or aluminium when it’s finished, and only requires the painter to follow the instructions on the can. Usually, brush painting is a second option when spray painting is not feasible, or when the area for painting is not as well ventilated, but it can also be used to create the look of a grain in the fence or gate. Make sure to choose paint that is safe for outdoor use

For a free quotation, please contact Country Wide Walling today.

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Painting Concrete and Masonry Surfaces

paintingconcrete  

What You'll Need

•    Power washer
•    Bleach or mildewcide
•    Scraper
•    Wire brush
•    Safety goggles
•    Gloves
•    Face mask
•    Tri-sodium phosphate
•    Plastic bucket
•    Scrub brush
•    Concrete patch
•    Paint
•    Floor texture
•    Brush cleaner
•    Primer/sealer
•    Tape
•    Plastic wrap
•    Brush
•    Roller
•    Roller covers

You can use a fresh coat of paint to bring new life to an old basement, an exterior masonry wall, brick, or even a garage floor. With proper preparation, painting surfaces like these can be simple, and the end result will be worth the effort.

Step 1 - Clean the Surface

As with most painting projects, preparation is the biggest key to your success. If at all possible, ppressure washingower wash the surface first. This is the fastest and easiest way to remove old paint and any debris that will interfere with new paint. Use the power washer with some bleach or mildewcide if there is mold or algae present. However, you may be working inside, or in a place where the mess of a power washer isn't appropriate. If that’s the case, tackle cleaning with a scraper and a wire brush instead.

After all of the loose paint and debris has been removed, make sure that the substrate is clean. Any oil or grease on the masonry surface will bleed through the paint, causing discoloration, and possibly interfering with the longevity of the paint job. Use tri-sodium phosphate, also simply known as TSP, to clean the concrete surface before applying any product. Put on safety goggles, gloves, and a face mask; then, mix your TSP cleaner in a bucket according to the manufacturer’s instructions and scrub it onto the surface with a scrub brush to remove any grease or oil and ensure that your paint will stick well.

Step 2 - Make Any Repairs

Ireparing concretef you have any defects in the surface to repair, use a simple, ready-mix concrete patch to fix them after you clean. Refer to the manufacturer's recommendations when trying to assess how long the patch should dry before being painted.

Step 3 - Select Your Paint

When choosing your paint, the most important thing to keep in mind is location. Where is the paint going to be applied? When you’ll want to use interior over exterior paint—or vice versa—is fairly self-explanatory. Many manufacturers actually do make specific masonry paints, and some are even designated as floor paints, so you shouldn't have a hard time finding what you need if you pay attention. There are also additives for your floor paint that can give it some texture or grip. This material is inexpensive and doesn't change the color but does prevent the slips that can occur when wet feet hit a slippery floor. Some kits also come with decorative chips that are added as the paint is applied.
If you are using an oil-based paint and primer, you will need mineral spirits or paint thinner to clean your brushes, and most likely yourself.

Step 4 - Seal and Prime

Almost any masonry surface needs to be both sealed and primed before the paint is applied. The sealer is often clear, but keeps moisture from coming through the concrete. This is especially true in basements, which tend to hold moisture anyway. If you are not sure whether your basement has been sealed or not, tape all four sides of a square of plastic kitchen wrap onto the floor and leave it for 24 hours. If the floor hasn't been sealed, you will see condensed water between the plastic wrap and the floor that has evaporated up through the concrete. Check with a paint store or your local home improvement store’s paint department when selecting your products. Buy a quality masonry sealer and a primer that complements it. Use the two-step process of sealing and priming to build a strong, water-resistant foundation for your paint.

Step 5 - Paint the Surface

After your sealer and primer coats are completely dry, apply the paint. Use a paint brush to do detail work such as around windows and trim or baseboards. You alsopainting conrete wall need a brush for cutting in along the walls when painting a floor. A roller can be used to do the bulk of the painting, but make sure to read the manufacturer's recommendations as to what size nap to use. At least 3/4-inch or one-inch nap is recommended. Buy at least three roller covers, one each for the sealer, primer, and paint.

Apply several thin coats, rather than trying to apply one very thick coat, as paint actually forms a harder surface when thin coats are laid on top of each other. One thick coat often results in a gummy or soft surface. Allow each coat to dry thoroughly; this is often called “curing.” It means that the paint has dried through all the layers down to the original surface. Paint dries to different thicknesses, or “mils,” depending on its sheen and makeup. The thicker the mil of the paint, the longer this process can take. Paint applied to floors or walls in basements may have a longer curing cycle.

After your final coat of paint is applied, allow the paint to cure for the recommended time. If the paint is on the floor and you don't let it dry long enough, it may dry with footprints that will never go away.
Painting a masonry or concrete surface, be it walls or floors, inside or out, can give new life to your home. A space that may once have been dank and dirty can now be bright and clean. You can actually increase the amount of livable space you have just by adding some paint.

Contact Country Wide Walling for a free quotation

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5 Pro Painting Tips Every Amateur Should Know

propaintingtipssynd

The goal of every painter is to paint neatly and quickly. Fortunately, there are dozens of tricks, shortcuts and trade secrets devoted to painting, many more than for any other home-improvement activity.

The goal of every painter is to paint neatly and quickly. This can be challenging. My neighbor recently spent an entire week painting his bedroom, and ended up with nearly as much paint on himself as on the walls and ceiling. And in the end, believe or not, his wife decided she didn't like the color. He's now spending most of his time outside working on the lawn. Fortunately, there are dozens of tricks, shortcuts and trade secrets devoted to painting, many more than for any other home-improvement activity. Listed below are my five favorite painting tips, gleaned from years of personal painting experience and by watching pros on many job sites. Try one or all of the following techniques and I'm sure you'll end up with a paint job nice enough to show off to the neighbors.

1. Tint the Primer

Whether you're painting interior walls or exterior siding, a coat of primer is key to obtaining professional-looking results. This goes for previously painted surfaces as well as raw wood and new drywall. Unfortunately, most homeowners never bother with primer, which explains why they end up with blah-looking paint jobs. Primer serves three main functions: First, it blocks stains and resinous knots from bleeding through; second, it provides one-coat coverage for the paint topcoat; most importantly, it improves adhesion, which greatly reduces blisters and extends the life of the topcoat.

To further enhance the coverage of the topcoat, try this pro tip: Tint the primer toward the finished color by mixing a small amount of topcoat paint into the primer. (Be sure the primer and topcoat are both latex-based or both oil-based; never mix coatings with dissimilar solutions.) This will greatly enhance the ability of the topcoat to hide the prepped surface completely, especially when painting a lighter topcoat over an existing darker color.

2. Invest in Canvasdrop cloths

I used to buy cheap plastic drop cloths to protect the floor from paint spatters. At the end of the job, I'd just roll up the paint-smeared sheets and toss them out. Then I noticed that pro painters always use canvas drop cloths. When I found out why, I made the switch. Here are just a few of the benefits of canvas:
Canvas drop cloths are durable, and rip- and puncture-resistant. They lay flat as you walk across them, presenting less of a tripping hazard; seldom, if ever, must you tape canvas to the floor. Canvas also absorbs paint drips, unlike plastic drop cloths that become slippery when spattered with wet paint. You're much less likely to pick up paint on your shoe soles from canvas. Canvas drop cloths can easily be folded around corners and doorways--something that's virtually impossible to do with plastic sheeting. Plus, canvas can be reused countless times. I always felt bad about discarding plastic drop cloths after just one use, but reusing them was messy because the dried paint drips and splatters would flake off and get all over the room. Several years ago I bought a 10-oz canvas "runner" that measures 4 ft wide x 15 ft long for about $16. It's perfect for lying on the floor against the wall or spreading outdoors over shrubs and flower beds along a foundation wall. Now, I've never had paint soak through my drop cloth, but you can buy plastic-lined canvas drop cloths that offer better soak-through protection.

3. Roll With a Pole

When painting rooms, forget the ladder and get a telescoping extension pole for your paint roller. Extension poles come in various sizes, but one that extends from about 18 in. to 30 or 36 in. offers plenty of reach for painting rooms with ceilings that are 9 ft or lower. There are also extra-long extension poles that telescope up to about 18 ft for painting cathedral ceilings and loft spaces.

To attach the extension pole to the paint roller, simply thread it into the hole in the paint-roller handle. Check to be sure your paint-roller handle has a threaded hole in its end; most of them do. The shaft of the pole telescopes out and can be locked anywhere along its length with a twist of the wrist.
When shopping for extension poles, look for one that has a soft, nonslip rubber grip and a rigid metal core. And be sure the threaded end of the pole is metal, too. All-plastic handles are too flexible, making them hard to control, and the plastic gets fatigued over time and can snap under pressure. Also check to be sure the telescoping shaft locks securely in position and doesn't collapse when forced.

paint buscket4. Paint Off a Grid

When it comes to poorly designed hardware items, it's hard to find one that matches the futility of the paint-roller tray. Here's a device meant to hold paint for paint rolling, but it spills easily, only holds a small amount of paint, is hard to carry from one spot to another, and is difficult to clean. Plus, you must place the tray on the floor, where someone--okay, me--invariably kicks it or steps in the paint.

I stopped using paint trays years ago, and have never regretted it. Now I roll paint directly from a 5-gal bucket using a paint grid, which is a rectangular, rigid metal screen that hooks onto the rim of the bucket. Start by filling the bucket about halfway with paint, then hang the grid in the bucket. Now dip half of the roller sleeve into the paint, and roll it against the grid to remove excess paint, which drips back into the bucket. At the end of the day, just drop the grid into the bucket and snap on the lid.

5. Record the Color

After painting a room, it's important to keep track of the brand name and color of the paint used, so you can buy more when it comes time to touch-up or repaint the room. I've tried a few techniques to remember paint information, including recording it in a notebook, which I promptly lost, and writing it on the side of the leftover paint cans, which I'd eventually toss out along with the information. I've since found a better way:

Before replacing the light-switch covers and electrical-outlet covers in a newly painted room, I write the vital information (brand name, paint color, paint number) onto a piece of masking tape and stick it to the back of a switch plate. And there it'll stay until it's time to repaint, when it'll be discovered by me, or--with any luck--the next homeowner

For a free quotation, please contact Country Wide Walling today.

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Best Service Ever

We had our Concrete Palisade Fencing Erected by Country Wide Walling in July 2015. Although our fence was only 235m long, we were still treated as if we were one of their top clients. Service, efficiency and cleanliness were a priority for me, and Country Wide Walling delivered in all these aspects. If you want the best concrete palisade fencing company in the industry, then Country Wide Walling is the right fencing company for your walling projects.

WE OFFER YOU:
Direct from factory
2 years guarantee
Our own contractors
Free quotes
Prompt services
Clean site on completion
Job satisfaction
CONTACT US:
TEL: 011 743-2221/2/3/4
EMAIL: cwwreception@yahoo.com
ADDRESS: 7th Street,
Witpoort Estate,
Brakpan, Plot 222,
East Rand, Gauteng,
1540